Next stage for lancer

thanks for that!

Anyhow i have been real busy, My mate still hasn't got the pics to me and i'm not sure when he will have them. I did a quick "and dodgy" diagram with paint showing where i think it would need to come from to where it needs to go. I'm not sure what front spoiler you have on but the one i took from your ride section would need to be on to make this work....

So you would suck in the air here where i have circled in orange, yellow shows where the pipe sucks air from.



and then here shows the route the pipe would need to take. How thick/How much room is there along this route? Would there be enough for a 4 inch pipe? You would need a big mouth opening for the start of the pipe such as the following diagram ... the yellow would be one big opening which connects to the pipe to suck air in.



And then you would need to run the 4 inch pipe back to a 3 inch or whatever it is that connects to the throttle body as shown here in another dodgy diagram ...



That would be getting cold air from outside the engine bay at all times then thus giving your car more power. Or you could try one like mine over the radiator. I will have to show you. If you go to the Dyno comp sunday i should be there around 11am i think and can show you how mine sits and if you have your car can show you where you would need to make room to put it. There is also another method which i will show you once i get these pics where the air filter sucks up cold air from the bottom of the engine bay which would be the second best and easiest design for your car.

Sorry the diagrams are not that clear as i am flat out busy between now and sunday or i would have spent more time making them easier to understand.

thanks heaps! i totaly agree with what ure sayin ay. i have been lookin into piping for it directly without the pod. at the moment i seen some cheap ones for $190.00

Damn thats pretty cheap. Another option would be to put bonnet vents in. But instead of having the vents facing backwards you could turn them around so they drew air straight down to your current pod filter. ie instead of the vents facing this way <front onf car bonnet ///// < vents you could have them this way <front onf car bonnet \\\\ < vents. although that would involve cutting a hole in your bonnet directly above and slightly in front also of the pod and i'm not sure if your too keen on doing that.

If you were going to do it then a pre fabricated one like this would be the best option (sorry i can't host images from the work computer so i'm using links) http://www.coolercases.co.uk/images/sound_vision/26.jpg

This one looks good also (not sure if it is the same) http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/resources/images/list/AC50.jpg

If you made up one of these then underneath the bonnet you could make up a shroud so that the pod fits inside it and only sucks air from the scoop. The faster you go the more forced air will be driven into the engine also. Does your lancer have a MAF (Mass Air Flow Metre) If so this design may force too much air in and you will most likely need to tune your car to run without the MAF.

My cousin had a LJ Torrie with an offset design like this but he had a huge a$$ turbo under the bonnet. And i think it'd look cool with a small scoop about 4-5cms cms high and maybe 10-15cms wide. Would probably cost around $400 to do this as you would need to cut a hole in the bonnet and have the scoop sprayed and put on at panel shop.

The only problem with that is it's not a "stealth" approach to modding and may attract some unwanted attention even though it's 100% legal.

there is no point making more air go into the engine unless your going to upgrade your fuel system. you will throw the manufacturers air fuel raitos out of wack. In fact the is no point in modifying an engine's performance at all unless your going to upgrade the engine managment and get it tuned. (unless its old school carburetted)

someone said i should replace the curent chip and get like a ralli art stage watever racing chip....what do you think of them ?

on_boost wrote:there is no point making more air go into the engine unless your going to upgrade your fuel system. you will throw the manufacturers air fuel raitos out of wack. In fact the is no point in modifying an engine's performance at all unless your going to upgrade the engine managment and get it tuned. (unless its old school carburetted)

Yep thats why i posted earlier about having to retune it and if it had a MAF (Mass Air Flow Metre) then you could tune it to run MAFless (like mine) then you can force as much air down as you'd like. You can then tune the AFR's (Air Fuel Ratios) via a Laptop using a Wideband plug which goes into the exhaust just behind the cat (of course you would need to have a plug put into the exhaust). I will take a pic of mine to show tomorrow. The main thing is at the moment it's sucking hot air from under the bonnet and if you were to put a cold air intake on it it will still improve performance regardless of a retune or not. As we all know .... the colder the air = the more power you have!

Tommy Lancer wrote:someone said i should replace the curent chip and get like a ralli art stage watever racing chip....what do you think of them ?

Best to get a custom tune if possible as changing pcm's/chips are a base tune and they will run very safe/conservative. If you get someone to custom tune/remap your pcm you can lean on the tune as much as you feel safe to and it will be set up to work for your car and how it performs.

Oh and my mate with the VE doesn't have a digi cam at his gold coast home only at his one in brizzy, so he has said if he forgets to make pics this weekend then when he comes to visit next week i will take some shots and put them up.

cheers - matthew

so if tommy got the CIA, retune/chip, extractors/exhaust, what kind of gain would he be looking at. like 20%? and what about an ignition upgrade?
just throwing some ideas out there

Not too sure but it would have to be more than 20%. Although being a totally seperate car I will use mine for example.

- Stock - 225kw at the fly or around 170kw at the treads
- HSV Clubsport 285kw Edit - Approx 270kw at the fly as still had the stock headers and exhaust.
- Twin 2.5 inch exhaust, hi flow cats, pacemaker headers - Approx 290kw at the fly.
- MAFless tune - Approx 320kw at the fly
- OTR CAI - Approx 330-340kw at the fly or around 240rwkw (manual would be around 250rwkw)
- Car is tuned to run on 98 octane and up only.

Now mine being an earlier model it had quite a safe tune in it and ls1's do respond extremly well to mods but i have managed to pick up about 115kw at the fly or around 70rwkw by doing this which is about 35% more power overall.

So based on that alone if similar type modifications were performed on the Lancer then i see no reason it shouldn't gain at least 20-25% maybe more. The diff gears in it are probably around 3.0:1 so if they were changed out to 4.0:1 also then you would probably "feel like" getting a 40% increase in performance over a standard vehicle.

Now i'm not 100% sure with this but i think tommy's lancer is one of these models ...around 1999?

GLi - 2-door coupe and 4-door sedan. Powered by a 4 cylinder, 1.5 L engine (4G15 SOHC - 69 kW)
GLXi - 2-door coupe and 4-door sedan. Powered by a 4 cylinder, 1.8 L engine (4G93 SOHC - 88 kW)

Now having read his ride post i think it's the Gli model with 69kw as standard. Please correct me if i'm wrong.

So if you were to pick up at least 25% by doing these mods i see no reason why you would not have 105-110kw after doing them. But .... I dare say to do equivilent mods on a Lancer with the above mentioned it will cost 2-3k at least. So it all comes down to funds and is it worth doing? Because saving the money and spending 3k later on on a turbo'd or angry v8 will provide way more bang for buck than moding a N/A 4cyl.

there Is some good info in there for you tommy, the cold air induction is a brillant Idea.

Correction from a previous post .....

By the looks the Afr's are checked via a wideband oxy sensor before the cat. Thats what it looks like in the pic here and I can't be bothered going back outside and getting under the car again to double check. Anyhow as promised earlier here is the pic of the plug/bolt where the wideband oxy sensor is inserted when tuning to make sure the afr's are around 14.5

yes, if u force more air into the motor it will make more power but could be potentially damaging to your motor as it will run very lean. it is iportant to keep the air fuel mixtures rigt, hence the whole concept of dyno tuning

on_boost wrote:yes, if u force more air into the motor it will make more power but could be potentially damaging to your motor as it will run very lean. it is iportant to keep the air fuel mixtures rigt, hence the whole concept of dyno tuning

My car has never seen a dyno and probably never will. There are programs out there such as RTLS1 and Efi Live which don't require a dyno. You drive it on the street and log it straight to a laptop then go back and adjust the tune and then drive again. The main issue with a dyno is that the car is stationary etc and doesnt have the same forces like air/wind resistence etc travelling over it. There are some that believe that a dyno is essential others that believe they are not. I have seen tunes done on a dyno that struggle to get 12's from their AFR's because the correct way to log it is via a wideband oxy sensor positioned like the one i posted earlier and most tuners are now starting to realise this. You just need the right tools to do the job either way and you will get the same results. A MAF will prevent the above mentioned issue from occuring and a cold air intake will not increse the amounts of air it draws in, it will only alter the density of air it sucks into the engine at a colder temp and will increase power. I guess the same scenario would be like having a small standard intercooler with the standard turbo and then replacing the intercooler with a larger one leaving the turbo the same. You will not be generating more air for the engine just cooler temps which will result in more power